you know those days?

You know those days when you get through the whole day without remembering to brush your hair once since leaving the house in the morning? My life is one long string of those days.

12 beautiful things

had a tough couple of days filled with petty annoyances, so i’m hitting back with a round of 12 beautiful things:

1. the german word for stapler: Heftmaschine = which is literally, “notebook machine”. because it turns individual pieces of paper into a notebook. right? i love german.
2. i made the walk from my office (in the theatre building) to the admin office (1 block away) today WITHOUT a coat, hat, scarf, 2 pairs of mittens and a scowl. for the first time since October.
3. waking up to sunshine.
4. the opportunity to go running before work.
5. my assistant joshua, who has an unfailingly cheerful and creative approach to the world around him. today he decided that to take our extremely, unnecessarily, irritatingly complex comp ticket policy (essentially an entire page of if-then clauses) and turn it into a flowchart. okay, you had to be there, but it was awesome.
6. our cat eddie, playing the “help my humans make the bed” game.
7. eating my morning grapefruit. the methodical process of loosening each section of fruit always makes me think of my father. i prepare it exactly the same way i saw him do it every morning for most of my childhood.
8. the way that nearly everyone in my facebook feed changed their profile picture to show their support for marriage equality. regardless of what the supreme court decides about this particular case, it shows me that my generation and the generations coming after me are bringing the change.
9. Neil Turok’s lecture series, “the Universe Within” – available for purchase here (no free streaming, unfortunately)
10. the specific way zeke meows at me when he means “i want to sit in your lap” and how i absolutely understand him even though he speaks cat and i speak english.
11. that moment when you finally have everything fit into the suitcase.
12. the willow trees near the river have turned bright orange, which is always the very first sign of spring in chicago.

Milwaukee, frozen river

i fell off the blogging bandwagon, and most other bandwagons, too, while running back and forth between Chicago and Milwaukee this week trying simultaneously attend the USITT and PMF conferences and keep my theatre running as well.

Milwaukee, frozen river

Milwaukee, over the course of the past week i’ve insulted your food, your architecture, your weather and your cheese hats. i stand by all of that. but i’ll also acknowledge that you also have the nicest people i’ve met anywhere. seriously, if we could meld California cuisine with Midwestern charm, we’d have an unstoppable super community.

the everyday bread recipe

it took a few months of tinkering to perfect this recipe, but for the past two years, I pretty much bake a loaf of this bread every week. in its basic form it’s fairly neutral in flavor, which means it serves equally well as breakfast toast (slathered in peanut butter) lunchtime sandwich loaf (wrapped around turkey or egg salad), or a dinner companion (dipped in olive oil or butter and garlic).

the chief recipe sources were Jim Lahey’s No Knead Bread, Healthy Bread in 5 Minutes a Day, and Artisan Bread in 5 Minutes a Day. (let’s be clear — i love kneading bread and staying home all weekend to bake a loaf of something from Rose Levy Beranbaum’s excellent Bread Bible, but for most of us that’s hobbiest bread, not daily bread).

time required:
10 min to mix dough followed by 4-8 hours for the first rise
refrigerate for up to 10 days
90 minutes for second rise/heat oven followed by 45 min to bake
15 minutes to cool before cutting, 8 hours before wrapping in plastic

supplies required:
– a ceramic or cast-iron casserole dish /dutch oven with lid – round or oval. Ben gave me a beautiful Emile Henry dutch oven for my birthday last year. It’s 4L, which is just a bit too big for a 900g/2lb loaf — but whatever you have will work, you can just adjust the size of the loaf up or down as necessary. it just has to have a lid and be able to withstand 450 degrees. (my last ceramic casserole dish, a hand-me-down from my mother’s kitchen, was never intended for high-heat baking. still, it held up admirably for a good year before it cracked in half).
– large mixing bowl or dough bucket with at least 4qt/4L capacity
– wooden spoon
– wire whisk
– food scale that can measure in grams – they are inexpensive and the best kitchen tool ever. trust me and just go get one.
– a smooth floured surface. it can be a clean counter or a pastry mat or a large cutting board. i’m a germ freak so i favor the pastry mat over the direct-counter approach (also, i have cats who run around on the counters whenever my back is turned).
– optional: a food thermometer

ingredients for two loaves (you can always cut this in half if you don’t think you’ll bake two loaves within a week)
– 360 g wheat or white wheat flour (i recommend King Arthur brand flours whenever possible)
– 595 g bread flour (again, KAF if possible)
– 17 5 vital wheat gluten (you can find it at Whole Foods in the bulk bins, also Bob’s Red Mill makes it)
– 15-30 g salt (depending on your taste, i like to use the higher amount)
– 14 g instant yeast (SAF brand is great, and don’t buy it in those silly tiny packets, get a jar and store in the fridge or freezer)
– 787 g luke-warm water (approx 85 degrees, should feel neither warm nor cold against your skin). some bakers say that the chlorine in tap water can inhibit yeast growth, and/or some tap water has a strong taste that can affect the bread; i usually keep a jug of distilled water around for bread baking. you can also just set tap water out on the counter to set overnight and most of the chlorine will evaporate that way.
– anything you want to add in, like herbs, nuts or seeds.

speed tip: I measure the ingredients out by putting the dough bucket right on the food scale, zero out the weight of the container, and then just pour in the ingredients, zeroing out the scale again after each item. that way no extraneous dishes or measuring cups have to get dirty.

mix all ingredients except water in the mixing bowl or dough bucket. use the wire whisk to stir them (i find that a whisk works better than a spoon to fully sift the dry ingredients together). add the water, and use the wooden spoon to mix until all the flour is fully incorporated (but you don’t need to knead it ). cover the bowl lightly with plastic wrap or a damp dish towel and leave somewhere warmish to rise. I usually use the turned-off oven, because the pilot light keeps it a bit warmer than the rest of the kitchen. but a cooler room will still work, it’ll just take longer.

let the dough rise at least 4 hours; overnight is okay too. it should double in volume. after at least 4 hours, move it to the fridge and use any time in the next 10 days (it’s best for regular bread in the first 4 days, after that i like it better for pizza dough or stuff that doesn’t have to rise as much).

when you’re ready to bake, take out the dough bucket, flour your hands and dig in. remove approximately half the dough (around 900 g; i place the dough bucket lid on the food scale and pile the dough on there to check the weight). quickly shape the loaf into a round by tucking the edges under while turning it 1/4 turn at a time. you’ll end up with a smooth top surface and all the wrinkles will be tucked under the bottom.

leave on a floured surface to rise for 90 minutes, lightly covered so it doesn’t dry out (instead of using up plastic wrap, i often just upend the empty dough bucket over the top of it. After 45 minutes or rising time, turn the oven on to 450 degrees and put the pot and lid inside to heat. (it’s crucial that the pot must be fully up to 450-degree temp before you start baking, that’s why the long pre-heat). continue to rise/heat for another 45 min (90 total since pulling the dough from the fridge).

side note: if you want to use the dough right after rising, skipping the fridge step, you can shape the loaf and just let it rise for 45 min while the oven heats, rather than the full 90. but this is a very wet (ie, sticky) dough and it is easier to work with when it is cold, so i recommend using it cold at least the first time.

after 90 minutes of rising/45 minutes of oven heating, remove the pot from the oven, transfer the dough to the pot. if you want to add any toppings, like sea salt or herbs or cornmeal, now is the time to do it. shake the pot slightly to get it evenly distributed, put the lid on and return to the oven. bake at 450 for 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake 15 minutes more.

if you want to check with a food thermometer, the loaf should be at or above 205 degrees in the center. but this step isn’t absolutely necessary if you don’t have a thermometer – there’s no health risk in undercooked bread, it’s just a little disappointing.

turn the loaf out of the pot and let cook on a wire rack for at least 15-30 minutes. it’s tempting to cut into the hot bread and eat it right away, but technically it keeps baking inside for a while after coming out of the oven, and if you cut into it too soon the heat escapes and the bread winds up underdone.

after initial cooling, wrap loosely in a dish towel and allow it to cool fully, at least 8 hours. after that store it in a gallon ziplock bag.

that’s it! i wish you many happy loaves.

for further reading: a google search turned up this 1920’s tract on bread-baking. what’s interesting is how little has changed in terms of the ingredients and techniques in the past 90 years (through their advice to rise bread by placing an oil lamp inside a wooden box does seem a bit of a fire hazard to this modern gal).

Among people who are not highly civilized, bread forms the chief article of food and often almost the entire diet, even at the present time; but as man progresses in civilization he seems to require a greater variety of food, and he accordingly devises means of getting it. However, it still makes up a sufficient proportion of the food of every family to warrant such careful and extensive study, as well as such mastery of the processes involved, that the housewife may present to her family only the best quality of this food. There is possibly nothing in the whole range of domestic life that so disturbs the welfare of the entire family as an inferior quality of this food.

there you have it: the key to domestic felicity is good homemade bread. and so i stand behind my decision to skip aikido this evening in order to tinker with my sandwich loaf recipe.

the 12 beautiful things game: it’s good for what ails ya

today’s beautiful dozen:

01 a morning where i can sleep until i wake up without an alarm
02 running in the rain — it wasn’t too cold and it was great fun splashing through the puddles
03 having a rare few hours of quiet on a sunday to run, make breakfast, bake bread, and lounge on the couch with B
04 the magic way that bread dough rises with the help of a few tiny grains of yeast
05 zeke, who spent the whole day on the couch, snuggled against B or i and purring his fool head off
06 a bowl of sticky white rice that came with my sushi order tonight. simple, wholesome-tasting food.
07 the shining, glowing happiness in the faces of my friends Hannah and Shane, in the photos they posted on facebook today annoucning the upcoming arrival of their first little one
08 having my office to myself — come monday morning it will be back to it’s normal crowded chaos, but on a sunday night i’m the only one here, my desk is clean, the fluorescent panels are off, i’m free to work or goof off or blog or whatever i want
09 the baby-sized chicken-leg-viking hat that i’m knitting for our friends Scotty and Lori’s new baby
10 the arrival of daylight savings time, and the beginning of long, lit evenings
11 the beautiful photography of Joe Mazza
12 Carol’s Cookies

University of Chicago

since this is where i’m spending my time this week, here’s a shot of U of C. (not that i get to work in THIS building, mind you. my theatre is more of your standard 60’s concrete bunker).

University of Chicago

Day off to do list:

Laundry – check
Dishes – check
Cat litter – check
Take out trash and recycling – check
Groceries – check
Bake bread for the week – check
Mail birthday gifts – check
Physical therapy appointment – check
Aikido practice – check
Fun – aw, crap, I knew I forgot something. Having only one day off sucks when you’re behaving like a responsible a grown up…

101 in 1001: [43] chicken soup, infinite ways

ben was working out of town for the past two weeks. cooking for one just isn’t that exciting, but i didn’t want to fall into an infinite takeout trap. and the cold weather was calling for soup. so i went to Whole Foods and bought a whole roasting chicken and some vegetables. i had made some leftover chicken bones into stock recently, and had been reading about the difference between stock and broth. a lot of internet sources will tell you that they’re the same or interchangeable, and that most commercially available stocks really are more like broths, but going back to the old standard – Joy of Cooking* – was helpful on this one. the actual difference is that stock is made by boiling the bones until the collagen breaks down, which gives the full-bodied mouth feel of a stock. a broth is made primarily from the meat, and is cooked for less time, so that the end product is thinner — still flavorful, but thinner. contrary to the internet’s popular opinion, Joy of Cooking recommended broths for clear soups, and stocks for fuller-bodied applications (for cooking grains, in cream-based sauces and gravy). this made sense because i’ve made chicken soup once or twice before from homemade stock, and my experience was that it always tasted sort of greasy in an unpleasant way. armed with this knowledge, i left last weekend’s stock in the freezer for future risotto adventures, and set about making broth.

i used Smitten Kitchen’s Chicken Noodle Soup as an initial guide, but her obvious lack of enthusiasm for making soup encouraged me to strike out on my own quickly. Joy of Cooking* provided the background knowledge on broth and stock, and this was a useful source on shredded chicken.

Chicken soup, deconstructed.

i unwrapped the chicken and set it on the cutting board before me. i’ve roasted whole chickens before, but that basically just requires unwrapping, seasoning and popping it in the oven. i’d never cut up a whole chicken before. at the store i had hesitated — buying a package of chicken parts would be so much easier — but a whole organic chicken cost $2.99 per lb, and a package of chicken parts cost $6.99 per lb. economy won out. i realized i had no idea how to cut up a chicken, and the task made me a bit queasy. i reminded myself that if i am going to eat meat then i’d bloody well better be willing to reconcile the actual animal with the finished food product. i dove in, and it was almost immediately apparent i had no idea what i was doing. thankfully, this video saved the day.

chicken broth:
– a whole roasting chicken (preferably organic)
– 2 Tbs butter or olive oil
– 1 carrot, roughly chopped
– 1 celery stalk, roughly chopped
– 1/2 yellow or white onion, roughly chopped
– 2 bay leaves
– handful of parsley
– teaspoon of black peppercorns
– water to fill the pot over the rest of the ingredients – tap is fine if yours tastes fairly neutral, spring water if yours has a strong taste

cut the chicken into parts. remove and discard the skin. discard the back (or reserve for making stock) and put the remaining pieces into a large cast iron skillet with the butter or oil. cook over medium high heat, flipping once until both sides are browned. don’t worry about getting it cooked through at this point. transfer to the largest stock pot you have with the remaining ingredients.

simmer for 25 minutes. when the chicken breasts reach 180 degrees (use a meat thermometer), remove the breasts. shred the meat and move to the fridge to chill. (i suppose that if you have a preference for dark meat you could harvest the dark meat and leave the breasts to flavor the broth instead).

continue to simmer the rest of the chicken and veggies. most broth-making instructions tell you to periodically skim the yuck that rises to the surface. i didn’t see a lot of yuck myself, so…just go with your gut on this one. after 2 hours, taste the broth and see if it has enough flavor. remember that you haven’t salted it at this point and we are accustomed to commercial broths being very salty, so if it tastes bland try adding a tiny pinch of salt to the spoonful you’re tasting. resist the temptation to simmer this pot for hours and hours like you would if you were making stock. the key is to get all the flavor of the meat and veggies, but NOT to break down the collagen in the bones.

when you’re happy with the flavor (mild is okay), discard all the solids and strain the broth. put it in the fridge to chill overnight and in the morning, remove it carefully without sloshing it too much. skim off any fat that has solidified and risen to the top. freeze for later use, or continue with the rest of the recipe below.

now here’s the fun part: this soup is infinitely customizable to individual tastes and preferences. the key to good fresh soup is to simmer the starch and the veggies in when you’re ready to eat, so that they don’t have hours or days to sit around getting mushy. the same night i made the broth, i washed and chopped a bunch of vegetables, stored them in tupperware, and then for the next four days when i came home from work i just had to put some broth into a small pot, heat it, add noodles, veggies and shredded chicken. vary the order and cooking time according to the ingredients’ cooking needs — some of the more delicate items can go in just before serving, if they don’t really need to cook (herbs, citrus, spinach), others that aren’t in danger of overcooking and can help flavor the broth and pasta (garlic, ginger, onions) can go in when you first start heating the broth. things like carrots and celery need about 3-4 minutes, unless you like them really mushy, in which case, boil away. or, in that case, just open a can of campbells and be done with it.

a couple of my favorite variations (in general, add the ingredients in the order listed):

classic chicken noodle:
– 2.5 cups broth
– shredded chicken meat
– whole wheat spiral pasta (wild rice or barley might work nicely here too)
– leeks
– carrots
– celery
– parsley

asian chicken soup:
– 2.5 cups broth
– finely chopped jalapeno
– grated ginger
– clove of garlic, pressed
– soba noodles
– mushrooms
– baby bok choy
– squeeze of lime

grown-up ramen:
– 2.5 cups broth
– clove of garlic, pressed
– carrots
– mushrooms
– ramen noodles
– mustard greens

*if you did not salt the broth while making it, then you’ll definitely need to salt the soup as you prepare it. start with 2-3 pinches of Maldon sea salt flakes (if you’re feeling fancy, or a shake or two of plain old table salt probably works too), taste and adjust.

this project cost approximately $30 in groceries (for organic everything; it could be done cheaper with conventional produce and poultry) and it made 8 dinner-sized bowls of soup (with plenty of vegetables left over for a few nights of stir-fry). the broth and chicken only keep for four days in the fridge, so i froze half of the broth and meat, and then defrosted them for four more meals the following week.

Chicken soup

* Joy of Cooking is like the Great Aunt Bertha of cookbooks. It has sturdy, unfashionable walking shoes, old fashioned ideas about gender roles and conservative politics. It’s easy to write her off as no longer relevant. But if you sit down over a cup of coffee you’ll discover that there are generations of wisdom to be found.